G-land Surf It seemed like a good idea to check the size of the swell this morning. There was little wind and about 3-4 meters after the first inspection. I decided to go for a surf at lunch money tree to go, and there was only one ocean, but light, and came a little “easier to not make barrels in the south as well. Sets were Lully, but when they came a good size! 5ft easily when he finally shoot, and occasionally 6fter. I have two barrels of a wave of Nice, but mostly it was time to. All the trees on measures Aimed at new funds. Tiger track team went and had a ball, so fun that big waves head-on super.
After three days, but today was damn good, it was an anti-climax to what we have. More people have arrived in camp this morning. Most rescued from Hawaii years ago a great team! We miss .. Mike Mika Akima and her son, and many friends Mike Herr, Seuo all gone. Anthony King has left, he had 100 barrels in the last days. A very good surfer. Then the field was certainly a feeling of less energy … Still about 60 people here, but pitching Karate and Football.